STEAM at Silmo Paris

Nicky Collinson, editor, Dispensing Optics | DO Online

Exploring Silmo Trends

Science, technology, engineering, the arts and mathematics (STEAM) – it’s all harnessed in optics in some shape or form, and there’s no better place to explore this kaleidoscope of applications than at Silmo Paris…

Just over 50 per cent of visitors to the Norde Villepinte this year came from overseas, with a total head count of 33,358 across the four days (26-29 September) – a 6.5 per cent increase on last year. More than 900 companies showcased their innovations across 75,000m² of exhibition space.

Recognising the ever-growing consumer interest in all things tech, this year’s show had a Futurology theme and a new Tech Village – a space dedicated to artificial intelligence (AI) and smart eyewear. Described by the organisers as a ‘laboratory of ideas and trends’, the Tech Village enabled visitors to experience a range of smart eyewear innovations marrying research, technology and everyday professional practice.

Widening the discussion around AI in the eyewear and eyecare space, and its impact on the industry and professions, the show saw talks hosted by Google and Meta and three workshops by Snapchat.

As the connected eyewear market continues to evolve, the strategic challenges for the profession and industry in collaborating with this have been highlighted – including having a role in supporting, advising and training users. Experts have urged opticians to view these products as a way to diversify their offering – as fashion, optics and digital technologies continue to converge. As the Silmo Next Expert Committee has previously suggested, the need for better integration of opticians into the value chain – and the ethical management of notifications – appear to be priorities for the future.

Experiencing advances in smart eyewear

Eyes on the future

A range of products and services in the smart eyewear and AI sector were showcased, alongside exclusive user experiences. These included: EssilorLuxottica’s Oakley Meta and Nuance Audio, which went on to win this year’s Silmo d’Or in the smart eyewear category; Acep with its Smart Mirror AI that captures distance and near vision measurements directly from an iPad and another Silmo d’Or winner; LucyD ChatGTP-enabled eyewear; and Solos’ fifth generation AirGo A5 Audio smart glasses offering 10 hours of streaming or seven hours of phone call use and a choice of frame fronts.

Also in the tech spotlight was L’Atitude 52˚N making its Silmo Paris debut. Winner of the IFA Next Innovation Award in Berlin earlier this year, the German brand launched its Departure collection enabling visitors to experience the eyewear’s integrated AI specially ‘trained’ in art and culture with smart functions for museums, city tours and local recommendations.

Chamelo, a New York-based smart glasses company founded last year, claims to be the first company to commercialise instant colour-changing lenses (Prismatic) and electronically adjustable tint lenses (Eclipse). Chamelo’s patented technology, based on liquid crystal films, responds to light in 0.1 seconds. The company demonstrated its next-generation Eclipse lenses featuring user-controlled tint adjustment, with multiple control methods (touch, slider, auto, app). Its Prismatic lenses enable the wearer to change tints with a simple touch, with integrated audio and app connectivity.

It so happened that this year’s show came not days after Meta CEO, Mark Zuckerberg, unveiled the corporation’s new AI-powered smart glasses – Meta Ray-Ban Display with Meta Neural Band – at the company’s Connect event, pronouncing his belief that smart glasses would one day replace smart phones. Meta’s Orion project aims to create a pair of AR glasses capable of this. Under development in partnership with EssilorLuxottica, the glasses integrate advanced connected functionalities into a design that retains the appearance of traditional eyewear.

Capturing the zeitgeist

Show navigation planning

Every year at Silmo Paris a stunning array of eyewear can be found – and this year was no exception. The show saw many UK companies taking part including Eyespace, Modstyle, Reykjavik Eyewear, Wolf Eyewear, Oliver Goldsmith, Inspecs and Mondottica. A selection of stand-out designs ‘Seen at Silmo Paris’ can be found in the up-coming November/December 2025 issue of Dispensing Optics.

Situated at the entrance to the show, this year’s Trends Forum highlighted the shapes, colours and materials shaping contemporary eyewear including:
• The return of reinvented icons
• The quest for lightness and serenity
• A charismatic and assertive allure
• The energy of exploratory graphics

A curated selection of designs from exhibitors’ collections illustrated these stylistic directions, capturing “the spirit of the times and anticipating tomorrow’s aesthetics”.

Hélène Caffin-Pinon receives her award from the Silmo president

Sustainability was never far from the thoughts of the organisers, exhibitors and visitors alike – exemplified by a new space dedicated to corporate social responsibility. This saw eco-friendly materials on display and best practice sharing through the Committee Company Award.

For its fourth edition, chaired by Michel Penneman, the Optical Design Contest invited design students to imagine ‘super-hero’ eyewear: bold, visionary and innovative. The winner was Gaia, a children’s frame integrating plant recognition via augmented reality designed by Hélène Caffin-Pinon of École Design Saint-Étienne, France.

The creative flow continued with a heritage-focused exhibition showcasing a rare eyewear collection tracing two centuries of evolution – and the legacy of the cities of Oyonnax and Morez on the industry.

Moi Aussi installation

This was aesthetically complemented by Moi Aussi, a captivating artistic experience featuring the work of 90 artists who had reinvented eyewear through unconventional supports, repurposed materials and reimagined functions. Conceived and supported by Etnia Barcelona, the exhibition reflected the Spanish brand’s commitment to art, colour, and quality.

Honours for innovation

Chaired by designer Olivier Lapidus, the Silmo d’Or Awards once again celebrated excellence, creativity and innovation in the sector. Held in the Gabriel Pavilion off the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, the evening was hosted by Silmo president, Amélie Morel, and honoured winners in 12 categories, with two special categories – Committed Company Award and Jury’s Special Prize.

This year’s Silmo d’Or winners were:
Children: Manti Mani with its 3D collection combining sustainable PA11 made from castor beans with advanced 3D printing
Sport: Evil Eye Eyewear with its Speedsense rimless frame featuring a unique lens locking system with an integrated lever mechanism
Vision: Rodenstock with its BIG Exact Sensitive lenses customised to each individual’s visual sensitivity and biometrics
Material: ACEP with its Smart Mirror AI optical measurements solution
Technological Innovation (Eyewear): QED Eyewear with Phi, its patented waste-free frame/lens fastening system
Smart Eyewear: EssilorLuxottica with Nuance Audio all-in-one hearing glasses designed for people with mild to moderate hearing loss
Optical Frame (Labels): Tag Heuer with Line, featuring a unique double-bridge made of Dyneema
Sunglasses (Labels): Como with Yohji Yamamoto model YYSUN502 featuring a micro-perforated metal bridge
Sunglasses (Eyewear Designer): Design Eyewear Group with Flare by Face à Face
Optical Frame (Eyewear Designer): Dzmitry Samal with Luc
Sunglasses (Eyewear Maker): Piero Massaro with Tramonti di Pietra
Optical Frame (Eyewear Maker): Vanni with Extra
Special Jury Prize: Sapiens with ER-1813-M, a mask with prescription inserts based on a Homo habilis skull, code KNM ER1813
Committee Company Award: Friendly Frenchy, which produces products made from natural, recycled or innovative materials

Dzmitry Samal showcases the company’s Silmo d’Or trophy

Commenting on the company’s award win, Stefano Genco, head of Nuance Audio, said: “Winning the Silmo d’Or is a true honour and a validation of our mission: giving people with mild to moderate hearing loss their confidence and social freedom back. Our smart glasses prove that hearing solutions can be both functional and fashionable.”

Dr Dietmar Uttenweiler, executive vice president of research and development and innovation at Rodenstock, commented: “Winning in an exceptional competitive environment affirms our ongoing commitment to pushing the boundaries of lens innovation. At Rodenstock, we are committed to shape the future.”

Susanna Kumpfmüller, brand director Evil Eye, said: “This award is a powerful symbol for us, confirming our innovative strength and reinforcing our passion for developing sports eyewear that meets the needs of athletes and sports enthusiasts.”

Also announced during the evening was the 2025 International Optician of the Year Award, which went to USA licensed optician, Blair Wong, who said: “As a blind individual living with retinitis pigmentosa, I strive to advocate for the visually impaired and to build sustainable vision care solutions for underserved populations around the world.”

The next Silmo Paris will take place from 25-28 September 2026.